Spanish Cuisine

From chilled gazpacho in Andalusia to changurro in Basque country, and from roast lamb of the Aragonese highlands to pork stews featuring Iberian pigs in Extremadura, Spanish food is local, down-to-earth and entrenched in its regional roots.

To understand Spanish food is to delve into the country’s tumultuous history of conquerors and kingdoms in this gateway between Africa and Europe, the Mediterranean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean. First the Greeks and Celts, then the Romans, followed by the Arabs who crossed over from Northern Africa to rule for more than 500 years before being driven out by Christianity in the late 15th century. Each group came with their own cuisine and ingredients which were cultivated and adapted to their new climate and soil - olive oil and garlic from the Greeks and Romans; citrus, honey, almonds, saffron and cumin from the Arab Moors which undoubtedly left an indelible mark on Spain. 

During a short period of harmonious existence with the newly arrived Christians and Jews, and before their expulsion, the cuisine of the Moors was blended. This was most notably seen in the flavouring of pork, brought by the Christians, with the spices of Moors and Jews whose beliefs prevented them from eating pig.

Spanish exploration in the New World during the 16th century brought with it a host of new ingredients – potatoes, peppers, tomatoes, corn, beans, paprika, chocolate and vanilla, while European influences infiltrated across the continent to the Iberian Peninsula. Variations in geography, soil and climate were determining factors in the cultivation of produce and from the towering mountains of the Pyrenees to the fertile coastal plains they evolved into the regional dishes and multitude of cuisines that abound in the country today.

With almost 5000km of coastline, seafood is a pillar of Spanish cuisine making bold, mouth-watering appearances. The Mediterranean Sea to the southeast, the Cantabric Sea to the north and the Atlantic Ocean to the west all offer bountiful catches of fish, squid, lobster, mussels and crabs that are sold in lively early morning fish markets. The prevalence of Omega 3 as a result of such abundant seafood makes Spanish cuisine one of the healthiest diets in the world. While fresh seafood is used distinctively in regional dishes close to its origin, such as Catalan fish stew, suquet, or lobster stew of the Balearic Islands, salted cod is known as the ‘inland fish’, infiltrating into the country’s interior because of its preserved properties. Lime juice cooked ceviche, prawn croquettes and stuffed mussels all make appearances on tapas dishes throughout coastal cities where drinks are always served with something enticing to munch on.

In addition to being revered for its seafood, Andalucia’s hillsides are lined with olive groves that provide not only olive fruit but also oil for what is a staple of Spanish cooking. Premium olive oil is not only used to fry but as a flavour enhancer – to be drizzled, dolloped and dipped in. Andalucia’s warm climate has influenced the creation of chilled gazpacho soups, both red and white, flavoured with the eastern spices brought across by the Moors from northwest Africa.

The fiercely independent region of Cataluña in the northeast borders France and its cuisine draws on elements of both French and Italian influences. It was here that the first Spanish cookbook was  written, evidence of the regions culinary wealth and history. Dishes range from the ever so simple Pan con tomate – tomato rubbed on bread, drizzled with olive oil and salt – to bean tortillas, snails and iconic Catalonian sauces such as samfaina, sofrito, picada and aioli.

The high plateaus and mountains along the interior are ideal sheep and cattle grazing grounds and are home to the country’s famous cured hams. Fire roasted piquillo peppers, stuffed or sautéed are features of Aragonese cuisine, while La Rioja has made a name for itself as a premier viticulture destination, all against the spectacular backdrop of the Spanish Pyrenees. The region’s dry expanses of land provide prime grape and olive growing terrain, while rich, fertile farming grounds allow for abundant vegetable cultivation.

The cuisine of the Basque country in the far north draws on seafood influences from the waters of the Cantabric Sea and cured meats and vegetables from the Ebro Valley. Salted cod, lamb stews and basquaise-style tomato and pepper-based dishes are favourites, as is Basque cider, served in traditional sagardotegi cider houses accompanied by local cod omelette.

In the eastern part of the country Valencian citrus orchards pepper the landscape and while its cuisine has been highly influence by neighbouring regions, it is here that paella is most famous with its birthplace claimed to be just south in Albufera and Ribera. Rice is a staple of Spanish cuisine and was brought by the Moors and integrated with flavours and ingredients from other migrants into a vast array of Spanish dishes. Paella is so named for the large pan in which it is cooked and Valencian paella combines rice, vegetables, snails, beans and some form of meat, usually chicken or rabbit. It is spiced with saffron, rosemary and lemon and cooked to artful perfection over a low heat. In other parts of the country paella has involved into paella de marisco with seafood, and paella mixta, combining seafood and meat. While outside of Spain it is considered the country’s national dish, many Spaniards consider it distinctly Valencian.

Chorizo is one of Spain’s most iconic foods with dried and smoked red peppers giving this pork sausage it’s distinctive red colour and smoky flavour. A stalwart of landlocked Castilla’s cuisine it features in everything from paellas to omelettes and is one of the country’s most popular culinary exports. The region is also home to manchego, sheep’s milk cheese, bean stews and wood-roasted suckling pig.

Relinquished to the Atlantic Ocean, the Canary Islands have a distinctive cuisine as a result of their isolation from the Spanish mainland. Seafood accompanied by mojo picon sauce is a favourite of the archipelago, as is rabbit in salmorejo – a puree of tomato and bread originating in Andalucia. Fresh fruits such as bananas, mangoes and persimmons offer plentiful snacking and commonly feature in desserts in the region.

While Spanish cuisine itself is unique, so are the eating habits of its inhabitants. Breakfast or desayuno is a basic affair – coffee and a small pastry sprinkled with sugar – while lunch or comida is generally the multi-coursed main meal of the day eaten between 2pm and 4pm. Salad or soup is followed by a fish or meat dish and finished off with fruit or sweet desserts. Meals are not rushed affairs and a sobremesa period of extended chat at the table following a meal is the norm, allowing for digestion and culinary reflection. This, in turn, is often followed by a siesta - a practice evolved long ago in rural areas allowing workers to digest their midday meal before returning to work. While it is still common today many people don’t stop to sleep but rather close down businesses for a period to return home and eat amongst family and friends. 

Dinner or cena is a lighter meal, eaten late between 9 and 11 in the evening and this is where tapas come in to play. These small dishes of snacks and appetizers served hot or cold are sold in bars throughout the country, encouraging conversation, drinking and light eating. Tapas are thought to have originated as slices of bread or meat used to prevent flies from drowning in sherry glasses in Andalusian taverns. Over time, bartenders began transforming these salty snacks into more elaborate creations, encouraging drinkers and increasing the sale of alcohol. They have evolved from simple dishes into a sophisticated cuisine of their own, drawing on regional influences and complementing local beers and wine. 

Spain has developed an excellent reputation as a winemaking country with iconic grape varieties such as Albariño, Tempranillo and Verdejo producing drops that are fundamental companions to Spanish meals.

Another stalwart on Spanish menus is bread. It is served with almost all meals in Spain, even beside heavy carbohydrate dishes such as rice and pasta. Spaniards consume it enthusiastically and will be disappointed by its absence.

With such varied flavours and ingredients, brought by an exotic mix of migrants and conquerors, amalgamating into the rich cuisine we see today, it is difficult to not be enticed by Spain’s dishes. To travel through the country, watch the landscape change, and that of its produce, is to observe how local cuisines have become integral in determining the identity and character of its unique regional areas. If you embrace the diversity in Spanish cuisine and delve a little deeper it offers a history lesson you won’t want to miss.

Tapas

There are few things in life I would rather do than take advantage of the relaxed Mediterranean outlook on life, and Europe's vastly superior culinary skills with a visit to a tapas bar.  Firstly, tapas should be free, at least that's the case for traditional tapa, as the Spanish knew it before the tourist invasion. It's getting more and more unusual now to be offered free tapas with your drinks, but such cafes and bars can be found, it's all a case of stepping off the tourist trail.

The word 'tapas' stems from the Spanish verb 'tapar' - literally to cover, although tapas is normally translated as lid. The origin of the practice is somewhat debated but the most popular belief is that it stems from the age old Andalusian practice of using a piece of bread to cover a  glass of wine or sherry, to protect it from flies. At some point it appears to have become fashionable to top this "lid" with a snack. A less likely story goes something like - during the 16th century, tavern owners in Castile-La Mancha offered strong tasting mature cheese free with wine to mask it's poor taste and quality. (Why does Weatherspoon's spring to mind, UK readers?)

Free, you say?

Strictly speaking, yes, Tapas should be offered free when ordering a drink in a Spanish bar - but this practice is dying a rather slow death unfortunately, as the bar owners continue to count the $s and the £s. If you do go off the tourist trail and find somewhere this tradition still exists however, don't expect to order what you fancy - if it's given free it's the choice of the house. If you choose - you will pay, albeit a modest amount. 

A quick tip - If you do buy a drink in a Spanish bar and end up with a small bowl of complimentary nuts or olives which you don't want tell the waiter *when* he brings them to the table - this is good Spanish etiquette, leaving them uneaten on your table is rude. 

Varieties

There is an endless amount different tapas available, and they vary between regions, but here are a few of my favourites, a tiny percentage of the amount available - feel free to add your own suggestions below.

Patatas Bravas - Small chunks of potato cooked in chili/tomato sauce of varying strengths depending on where you visit - a standard tapa, most famously served in Bar Tomas in Barcelona (long queues), but available everywhere. 

Albondigas - Meatballs, Spanish style.

Gambas al ajillo - Shrimps cooked in garlic - most popular in the fishing ports, for obvious reasons. 

Croquetas - Croquettes, soft on the inside, crunchy on the outside, urecognisable to their tasteless, frozen, and very distant British cousins. 

Tortilla Espanola - You can't go to Spain and not have a Spanish Omelette, can you? Ingredients vary depending on which part of Spain you are in. The one below was recently enjoyed in Toledo, about an hour outside of Madrid.

Calamares - Rings of battered squid

Pulpo - Octopus. Nicer than it sounds, some traditional bars have small complementary 'pulpos' on the bar.

This is, of course, just a tiny fraction of all the tapas in Spain, so please, feel free to let me know below which your favourite is.